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Annapurna Kitchen

3. Ayurveda, Chinese Medicine and the Temple Kitchen

Readers who know Chinese medicine or Japanese temple cooking will find much that is familiar in Ayurveda. The comparison below is offered as a bridge, not an equation: each system has its own logic and should be learned on its own terms. Modern science has tested few of the traditional classifications of foods as heating or cooling [10].

ConceptAyurvedaChinese medicine (TCM)Notes for the cook
Basic elementsFive: ether, air, fire, water, earthFive phases: wood, fire, earth, metal, waterDifferent lists; both describe qualities in nature and body
Functional principlesThree doshas: Vata, Pitta, KaphaYin and yang; qi, blood and fluidsVata ≈ wind and dryness; Pitta ≈ heat; Kapha ≈ dampness and phlegm
Thermal nature of foodVirya: heating (ushna) or cooling (shita)Five natures: hot, warm, neutral, cool, coldBroadly agree: ginger, cinnamon, pepper warm; mung, winter melon, cucumber, chrysanthemum cool
TastesSix rasas: sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter, astringentFive flavours: sweet, sour, salty, pungent, bitter (plus bland and astringent)Astringent is a full taste in Ayurveda; TCM groups it with sour
DigestionAgni (digestive fire); ama (undigested residue)Spleen–stomach qi; dampnessBoth advise warm, cooked food and avoiding iced drinks
Daily clockKapha 6–10, Pitta 10–2, Vata 2–6 (twice daily)Organ clock: stomach 7–9 am, spleen 9–11 am, etc.Both favour a substantial breakfast or lunch and a light, early dinner
SeasonsSix ritus; ritucharyaFive seasons including late summer; 24 solar termsBoth eat with the season
ExcessKapha: heaviness, mucus, sluggishnessDampness: heaviness, phlegm, poor appetiteBoth use barley, adzuki, ginger and light grains to clear it

Six rasas, five Chinese flavours and the shōjin ryōri gomi. Figure — Six rasas, five Chinese flavours and the shōjin ryōri gomi.

Shōjin ryōri: the Zen kitchen

Shōjin ryōri — literally "devotion cuisine" — is the vegetarian food of Japan's Zen temples, brought from China by monks such as Dōgen in the 13th century. It is organised by a set of "fives" that echo Ayurveda's attention to variety and balance [4]:

PrincipleJapaneseWhat it meansAyurvedic parallel
Five colours (goshiki)White, black, red, yellow, greenEvery meal shows all five coloursVaried vegetables supply the six tastes and many qualities
Five flavours (gomi)Sweet, sour, salty, hot, bitter (+ delicate, awai)Every meal touches every flavourThe six rasas on one plate
Five methods (gohō)Raw, simmered, grilled, fried, steamedVariety of cooking techniquesVaried qualities: light and heavy, moist and dry
No gokunThe five pungent vegetables excludedOnion, garlic, leek, chive and scallion are omittedSattvic diet omits onion and garlic
SeasonalityShunEat each food at its peakRitucharya
Mindful preparationTenzoThe temple cook cooks as spiritual practiceAnnapurna seva — cooking as worship

The five pungents and the sattvic diet

Mahayana Buddhist monastics in China, Korea, Vietnam and Japan avoid five pungent plants (wǔ hūn): garlic, onion and shallot, leek, chive or Chinese onion, and — in some lists — asafoetida [3]. Their reason is close to the yogic one: the pungents are said to excite the passions and disturb meditation. The Annapurna Kitchen follows the same rule for onion and garlic.

[!TIP] A note on hing (asafoetida)

  • Indian sattvic cooking uses a pinch of hing to replace the savoury depth of onion and to help digest beans.
  • Several Chinese Buddhist lists of the five pungents include asafoetida. For guests who follow strict temple rules, hing is marked optional throughout this book — and none of the Eastern recipes depend on it.
  • Ginger, kombu, toasted sesame and a little soy sauce supply the depth instead.